Thursday, 7 July 2011

Let's Talk Leather - Part Two - Dye & Protective Coatings

In part one we discussed how leather was created and the different types of leather. In part two we'll look at Dye and Protective Coatings.

Full Aniline Dye: - Hides are immersed in a transparent aniline dye allowing the natural markings to show through then rotated on drums until the dye completely penetrates from front to back. No protective coat is applied making the most luxurious of leathers. Generally reserved for premium leathers, it's also the reason they're so vulnerable to stains. As it is a natural product, variations throughout the grain will be seen on the final product.


Semi-Aniline Dye: - Used on corrected leathers. Despite the name, hides are dyed through but then a layer of pigment is sprayed on top to even out variations. A thin coat of lacquer seals in the colour, resulting in leather that's almost as soft as premium leather, yet harder wearing and protected against fading and staining.

Surface Pigment: - Used only on the cheapest hides, primary bi-casts. The pigment sits on top and is sealed with lacquer resulting in stiffer surface. Easily identified because the back is not the same colour as the front. The raw hide will show through if nicked or scratched and is susceptible to cracking and splitting.


Quality leather isn't an expense, it's an investment that looks better the more you use it. There's a place for bi-cast and bonded leathers but it's a false economy to think they are cheaper. Top grain full and semi-aniline dyed leathers cost more up front but last longer, age well and hold their value better.
It's confusing out there. Terms like "All Leather" and "Top Grain Seating" can lead you to believe you're looking at a quality piece of furniture when it's just the opposite. If you know what you are looking for though, it makes it that much easier to ask the right questions.

Let's Talk Leather - Part One - How Is Leather Created/Types of Leather

Leather is the strongest, most durable and practical upholstery covering and will outlast fabric four to five times.
From Hide to Leather:
After cleaning and conditioning, hides are sorted according to quality. Because leather furniture requires large unblemished hides, it is the most expensive upholstery covering per square foot. The outside surface of the hide is cut away from the rest and reduced by a series of rollers to a thickness between 0.9 and 1.4mm. Because the cells are closer together in this layer, it's the strongest, most supple and durable part of the hide. The layer below - called the split - is thicker and stiffer but not as strong.


Real Leather, Fake Leather & The Stuff In-Between:
Top Grain Leather: - The outer layer - or top grain - is the most desirable for furniture. Nature adds its share of markings, often requiring sanding, protein injection treatments to retain suppleness and a protective coating. This process - called correction - adds heat and light protection and makes it more resistant to spills. The more correction, the lower the quality. Those top grain hides requiring no correction, the rarest and most expensive are called full grain or full top grain. These premium leathers are incredibly comfortable because the leather can breathe. However, they are susceptible to staining and marking.
Bi-Cast Leather: - Made from the split hide below the top grain, it's vinyl coated to resit cracking, splitting and peeling. While this helps, it doesn't come near matching the durability and fell of top grain leather.
Bonded Leather: - The leather equivalent of particleboard, it contains only about 17% leather in the backing. What looks like leather is actually vinyl.

Friday, 17 June 2011

Cleaning Your Solid Wood Furniture

There are many misconceptions about how to maintain your solid wood furniture and this is not helped by some of the advertising for household cleaning products. Here's a few tips to keep your furniture looking good.

Dust frequently with a clean, dry, lint-free cloth. Clean the surface by rubbing in the direction of the grain.
Polish HIGH SHEEN FINISHES every six months, using a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. Always rub in the direction of the grain.

DO NOT polish LOW SHEEN FINISHES (flat or satin). Wash these finishes with a mild liquid hand soap mixed with water - a spray bottle is helpful. Use a soft cotton or flannel cloth to thoroughly dry the surface immediately, always wiping in the direction of the grain.
Of the three types of furniture care products, we recommend only POLISHES.
Polishes contain detergents, emulsifiers and mineral oil. Detergents clean dirt from furniture, emulsifiers give it body to clean and last longer, mineral oil is left behind as a barrier to dirt and moisture.

We strongly suggest you AVOID silicone cleaners and waxes.
Silicone seeps into even the highest-quality finishes, creating a barrier that repels stain and lacquer. This makes it virtually impossible to re-finish or touch-up furniture, or maintain consistency in the finish shine.
The regular use of waxes may result in a build-up of wax film, which can actually attract dirt, smoke and other pollutants in the air, resulting in smudges and streaks. Many waxes also contain grit which can permanently damage furniture surfaces if used improperly.

Caring For Solid Wood Furniture

You've made the investment in quality solid wood furniture, giving it the regular care and attention it deserves will keep it looking good for many years to come. Here are a few tips to keep it looking its' best!
To avoid fading, keep your furniture out of direct sunlight and unless you have blinds you can close during the day, avoid placing it directly under windows.

Avoid wood stress from extreme temperature changes by arranging your furniture away from radiators, heat and air vents, and air conditioning units. Excessive moisture in the air will swell wood furniture, if it is too dry it can cause the wood to crack.
Use cloth/felt pads to protect your furniture from flowerpots, vases, hot dishes, etc as some items contain ingredients that can damage the finish.

Avoid staining by cleaning up spills immediately. Use a blotting motion rather than wiping. Water left for a prolonged period may cause white spots while alcohol, perfume, after-shave and medications will damage the finish if not quickly removed.
Periodically rotate accessories on your furniture so they don't always sit on the same spot. The colour of wood will change over time by exposure to light and if items are not moved, their outline will become very visible in the finish.

And always use a protective pad when writing on a wood surface.
By following these simple tips, you will enjoy your furniture for a lifetime!

Wednesday, 1 June 2011

Upholstery & Leather News

In addition to our Solid Wood Furnishings, Almira represents some of the finest upholstery collections in North America. Wesley Hall is one of our favorites. With almost 1000 fabrics, trims, cords and multiple wood finishes, we can create a piece uniquely your own. Recently Wesley Hall launched their "Signature Elements" Collection. Featuring a menu of easy-to-choose style and size options, it becomes very easy and affordable to create a custom look while meeting your practical lifestyle and floor plan requirements. The "Signature Elements" Collection lets you select an arm style, the number of seat cushions (attached, loose back, etc), type of leg and more!


Our leather selection also continues to grow. Yesterday's generic brown leathers are giving way to delectable brandies and caramels, as well as gorgeous shades of teal, citrus and pewter. These high fashion hues are perfect companions for fabric upholstery and much more acceptable by our home furnishings consumers.


If you are thinking about new upholstery for your home, we invite you to visit our store. We'd love to have you sink into a comfortable sofa or chair and discover why Wesley Hall is one of our favorites!